Boonville, an unrivaled getaway

Out of sheer good fortune (or a million years of evolution, take your pick), California is bountiful in its number of lush wine growing regions across our golden state.

A well known fact, but yet still a contentious conversation with locals anywhere, as I was reminded my first evening settling in to the Boonville Hotel, aptly nestled in the smack center of the Anderson Valley wine country and also aptly nestled smack center of a tale as old as time: the tale being, of course, about superior grape growing soil.

We (myself and my new found friends) sat around the bar, glass in hand, and talked of the good old days — when Napa soil was rich and tastings were free.

Now, a local insisted, Anderson Valley is positioned to be prime soil real estate. I don’t hold my degree in viticulture, but I do know how to have a good time and based on my weekend in Boonville, I’d hedge my bets that she knew a thing about this dirt of which she spoke.

Anderson Valley boasts what any good wine region boasts: a two lane highway dotted with dozens of tasting rooms around every curve, a small handful of tiny towns in between and unsuspecting 5-star restaurants, coffeehouses, and mercantiles next to organic farm stands weathered down by decades of travelers.

Where to even start?

To appreciate all this region has to offer, one would need either a weekend getaway (as we did) or an accumulation of many day trips spent driving in to explore.

We arrived at the Boonville Hotel one early spring day, assuming a charming and quaint stay but not truly expecting the luxurious experience it turned out to be. This welcome was the first clue we were in for something unique — a getaway unlike anything typical.

The Boonville Hotel has its beginnings as a roadhouse and, as with so many historic flagships, many colorful memories and peak moments have formed in its wake. It also serves as a signal to travelers that one cannot just arrive for the wine, but must stay for an entire culinary adventure.

We began our own trek with an absolute must-do when in Boonville: a smorgasbord of a cheese-forward charcuterie board with wine tasting at Penny Royal Farm, enjoying livestock and vineyard views, all made in house. We then rolled our glutenous selves north from there, but not without first feeding the goats who so generously fed us.

We made several more winery stops along highway 128 — too many to individually review actually, however, there was a common theme throughout each: The welcome, the joyful conversations and the weathered and worn countryside vibes.

It seemed there was an unofficial ambiance the winemakers were all collaborating on, or perhaps it was built in with the rolling hills and rolling fog. Our economic support included Maggie Hawk, Husch, Goldeneye, Toulouse and Lula Cellars — only a small handful of the many tasting rooms that are sprinkled left and right on the 11 miles from Boonville to Philo.

But for those who are less inclined to study viticulture by the glass, there is good news: California State Parks has carved out some adventures of its own with the very local Hendy Woods and Navarro River, both easily accessible by car and further on by foot.

Flat trails loop around old-growth redwood trees and on down to the water making it easy for all ages and abilities to enjoy some solitude amongst Mother Nature’s giants. I’ve never met a redwood tree I didn’t love, including ones that have fallen to expose their massive and wondrous root systems. An attraction in itself.

Other attractions worth mentioning are the locally sourced businesses that also beckon from the highway. Perhaps it’s a California thing, but I am here to convince the masses to join the movement of supporting your local farm stand.

Anderson Valley has a few you can quickly pull over for, the showstopper for us being Philo’s Apple Farm and Filigreen’s, when in season.

There’s also a few country stores and mercantiles that share local art and craftsmanship, as well as the favorite Pepperwood Pottery. A short drive up a gravel road leads you to a small botanical garden filled with a collection of sheds that are home to various ceramic masterpieces both inside and out. To walk the path is to enjoy a moment of whimsy created by Doug Johnson, his impact spanning over 50 years of pottery.

As mentioned earlier, a trip to Boonville is actually an unsuspecting culinary adventure, that is, if you haven’t done your homework.

But here are the provided cliff notes: Jumbo’s WinWin is a surprising and delicious step back in time, a homage to the retro diner we all deeply miss from our childhood. Don’t be intimidated by the long lines, they move quickly!

Paysanne is the coffee and sweet treat shop your dreams are made of, and despite coffee houses being a dime a dozen, Paysanne has somehow designed themselves to stand apart— conformity not in their language or their palette. The hand-painted ceiling alone challenges your beliefs of what realm you’re currently in as the barista hands over your carefully crafted latte art.

And for the first time ever, I feel compelled to share a restaurant we regrettably did not enjoy due to timing, but are planning a whole follow up trip just to experience: Offspring, a handmade pasta and pizza restaurant sourcing local ingredients and local talents. Peeking in on their dining room, and their social media, has left us with a severe case of FOMO, and a bit of embarrassment at the thought of writing a story highlighting Boonville without mentioning or trying this town jewel.

However, the Boonville Hotel and Restaurant is the true town beacon on multiple fronts, and leads the way with bold charm and innovation throughout the whole region.

The proprietors, a network of family (and friends that are like family) have chosen a color palette, a collection of artists, visionaries, a common design vibe that touches everything from the furniture to the room keys, and seemingly created an entire mission of serving this community and its visitors with an unmatched experience that spans up and down the Valley.

The restaurant here contends with the best of the best — as they should. Descendants of The French Laundry, and collectors of Michelin stars, the chefs design their menu each day from what is growing in their onsite garden and from local farms.

A full circle culinary adventure that should be on every Californian’s must-do bucket list, we cannot recommend this getaway enough.

Boonville is located on California Highway 128 in the heart of wine country.

To experience the Boonville Hotel, book your stay at www.boonvillehotel.com

California native Dannah Nielsen explores the lesser known areas of our state and shares her travels in hopes to inspire you to find new and adventurous ways to also enjoy California. For more inspiration, follow @ Ca.love.fornia on Instagram or contact her via email at dannah.nielsen@hotmail.com.