A forgotten sheep herder trail

To the west of Florence Lake is a trail leading to Dutch and Crater lakes. Elevation at Dutch Lake is 9,145 feet then the trail leads to an elevation of 9,365 feet at Crater Lake.

Long before hikers started experiencing this wilderness trail and the trout fishing associated with the two lakes, there were those adventurers called sheep herders.

During the early part of the 20th century, those hardy sheep herders used this trail driving their heard through these mountains grazing their sheep. Almost two decades ago I decided to do a solo hike and spend an over-night stay at Dutch Lake.

These two lakes are located east of Mono Hot Springs and west of Florence Lake. This trailhead is located at the lower parking lot west of the lake.

If you have never driven into this area, you will experience over 17 miles of winding, narrow road which leads over Kaiser Pass at 9,000 feet. You will pass the High Sierra Ranger Station and then follow this winding narrow road which leads to Florence Lake.

My hike was not a solo hike because I decided my dog Smokey would be an ideal companion on this adventure. He was an excellent hiking dog and would not chase any wild animal unless I verbally commanded him.

Our first three miles to Dutch Lake were an increased elevation gain, with many switchback trails. As grueling as this trail is, you will be rewarded with part of its history.

While hiking these many switchback trails, look up 12 to 16 feet and attached on the trunk of a few older pine and cedar trees will be early California license plates. The purpose they served: if the sheep headers’ were delayed late in the fall season and if they were surprised by an early snowstorm, they would follow these plates leading their flock off the mountain.

After a few hours of hiking we finally arrived at Dutch Lake. But we were not alone, the resident mosquitoes were happy with our arrival.

Dutch Lake is an excellent body of water with pine and cedar trees surrounding its banks. I had easy access for fishing anywhere along its shoreline.

After some searching, I found an excellent area surrounded by three huge boulders for my campsite. Overhead, dark clouds started forming over the distant mountains. Looks like a storm may be forming and heading in our direction.

I set up my campsite and if it did start raining we could stay dry inside the tent. As I suspected, the wind started blowing followed by an hour of rain.

Being that we are at a higher elevation and with the wind blowing, I experienced another one of nature’s surprises. Even inside the tent I could hear the wind moving across the treetops at the base of this mountain.

Then the sound became louder and slowly passed over my tent and finally moved to the west and became silent once again.

Finally, the rain stopped and I let my dog out, grabbed my fishing gear and I was off to catch dinner for this evening. The evening was a success and Smokey and I shared the warm and dry tent. Now I’m looking forward to the hike to Crater Lake in the morning.

After breakfast the following morning, Smokey and I departed for Crater Lake. This was an easy trail following a flat plateau which boasted large rock croppings and a few old-growth trees.

The distant views of the surrounding mountains made for ideal photos. I crossed over two streams and climbed over three large fallen trees that were uprooted during the winter.

Crater Lake is nestled below a large white steep mountain face and surrounded by pine trees. My reward came when I climbed to the top of this beautiful mountain behind the lake.

The view was breathtaking, revealing the entire valley I drove before arriving at the trailhead. This is a photographer’s dream with the steep mountain face of white, haloed by the blue sky and directly below by the crystal clear water of the lake.

After that display of energy, I descended to the lake and enjoyed my lunch with another pristine view of this area of our Sierra Nevada mountains.

I returned back to my campsite and packed up my gear for the return back to the trailhead.

This part of the hike was much easier even though I was following the same switchbacks down the mountain. Total was around 10 miles round trip.

Tony Krizan describes himself as an “adventurer” and he explores the Sierra Nevada range on a regular basis. He can be reached at tonykrizan@hotmail.com.